Відео

The 950 Hypermotard. Yeah it's really a great bike, perfect for Mallorca. Very fast! I have the traction control set to 1 (0 is off, 5 is granny), and the wheelie control set to 2 (0 is you can flip it, 5 means almost no front lift at all). ABS set to 2 out of 5.

Thanks, all good, just a minor tumble. I guess my hand was in the wrong place at the wrong time....!

My dealer didn't seem too optimistic about getting any kind of spares for 9200. Maybe it's still too early. Of course no warranty as it was me that broke it. But yes, it's a good idea to have some spares given how hard it is to get hold of anything these days.

@@CyclespeedTours Try a different bike shop. I know they can order Shimano parts if there is a part number. Sounds like that dealer you asked is just being lazy.

Which bike? I think the axles are different depending on the bike.

@@CyclespeedTours hello, its a tarmac sl8.

@@OscarFacuseh Mine were a gift, so not sure if specifically for the SL8, or possibly an early version. There is now a new version with a Ti insert in the hex head. But whatever, the SL8 requires a conical washer for sure.

Maybe read about their testing protocols? You think Formula 1 doesn’t depend on carbon parts?

It has a titanium insert. It's so light, but I think it's durable.

@@czts4778 Why not just make the whole thing Titanium then. It's not like anyone can see the carbon once it's inserted. What's the difference in weight going to be, one gram? And by the way, it's not doing a damn thing to make the bike faster. Why buy it?

Composites are around 30% lighter than titanium. If you want to reduce the weight of a bike you have to look at every component. That said I wouldn’t run these. The shear forces are too high for a composite. If they did fail the result could be life changing.

@@gweflj I would agree that an axle failure is something that you definiteyl don't want, but then neither would I want a handlebar, stem, frame, seatpost, saddle rail or spoke failure either, all of which are carbon.

This is true, and is a surprisingly high figure. My Spesh LBS torqued to around 7, no issues, and I was doing 8 or 9, again fine, before I read that 15 spec. These Overfast are rated at 9 max although tested to 19. I don't forsee any issues.

If you do the bolt calculation 9Nm with an M12 bolt will only get you in the region of a mediocre quick release. Lets say 3500-4000N of clamping force. QR are usually M5 thread. 5-7Nm on a M5 bolt are not comparable with 5-7Nm on a M12 bolt. I wouldn't use a thru axle with anything less than 10Nm. 15 Nm makes much more sense.

just a question here, 15nm torque will not compromize the hub bearings?

@@iamtotie short answer: no

Not sure I would agree with all of that. This component certainly does meet the engineering definition of an axle. "An axle is a central shaft that supports rotating wheels. On vehicles, the axle can be fixed to the wheels and rotate with them, or fixed to the vehicle with the wheels rotating around it." The wheel bearings are in direct contact with the axle. Yes it is also a bolt that squeezes the whole assembly tightly together and this should be tight enough to ensure no movement whatsoever. Remember the old days of QR skewers, where you just felt how tight you pushed the lever? Torque was therefore highly variable, depending on who did them up. But I agree that the clamping force should be high - higher than most would think. Although the 15Nm that Specialized mention seems very high - my Spesh LBS barely put 6 or 7 on mine.

​@@CyclespeedToursyeah I am sorry, but you should do more research on that. Peak Torque also has a very good video on this topic. As an engineer, I can tell you that your understanding is not correct. 99% of hubs have a hub axle on which the bearings sit. This axle is larger in diameter. Your thru axle is literally just a bolt that runs thru the hub axle that should provide clamping force. No radial load, no contact with bearings. A quick release is usually M5×0.8 which will generate roughly between 4000 and 6000 N when you do the bolt calc with the shimano specified torque. With a good lever you will be also in the region of 4000N. To get this with a M12 bolt you need at least around 10 Nm. The 15 from Specialized seem very reasonable if you wanne benefit from higher stiffness with through axles and are complete inline with a DT thru axle calculation

@@MS-bw7yt OK, point taken re. the thru axle, I had overlooked the fact that the wheel has it's own hollow axle through which the thru axle bolts. However, I'm not sure that most riders are aware of a torque recommendation for their thru axle, assuming that they even have a torque wrench and one that goes over 10Nm. (Most smaller bike ones don't). Factor specifies 12Nm for the Ostro. Anything over 10 is pretty tight and I know 2 LBS's that for sure don't do it that tight, and most riders I know don't either. So I guess the question would be, what are the consequences of a too loose thru axle? I rode my Ostro for almost 3 years, with no issues, tightened 'hard' but probably less than 12. If you puncture and have to remove the wheel, you would need a pretty decent allen key (not multitool) to actually release the thru axle if torqued to 15. The Overfast have a recommended torque of 9Nm and they seem to be working well in a variety of bikes.

No, 29mm, SRAM DUB standard

I ended up preferring the Sphyre 903, but the Sworks 8 are good too.

Pendantic?

@@CyclespeedTours God you're a mess. The word is "pedantic". There are two models of "903".. RC903 and XC903. But yeah, same thing, right.

@@user-cx2bk6pm2f ok, so typed too fast, I am well aware of how pedantic sounds and is written. But you prove my point because these shoes are quite clearly nothing to do with MTB. My channel is for road bikes and this is clearly a road shoe, that is immediately obvious.

My frame is 675g, which helps, then I use a 75g AX saddle and a Roval Rapide 1 piece bar.

Yeah, I fully understood that, but the unit is unable to maintain the battery life in full sun which seems pretty pointless to me. True, they have little space to play with, but then in that case, don't bother. It's a gimmick that doesn't really work properly.

I still have tubular Bora Ultras - great wheels.

In this case, the wheel was at fault, poor quality control. But the problem with hookless that everything has to be spot on, all the time. No room for error.

yeah, they had to add extra material to be on the safe side.

The V1 is a great bike, but the SL8 is just a touch better in all departments except aero. But yes, the SL8 is the almost perfect do it all bike.

That's a good thing!

With the pros riding the SL8 and pushing over 1500 watts in sprints, I don't think there are any major stiffness issues, but I get what you're saying about a heavier rider wanting some strength in the frame. I have a friend that is much bigger than you and he is fine.

@@CyclespeedTours pros are very light yes some put out 2000 watts but the bottom bracket area is never the issue plus we’re seen handle bars break and pros have 10 bikes all the same we ride our bikes alot longer then pros do I wouldn’t use that logic with comfort. We should get more durable bikes were not pros racing tour de’france. At least I’m not.

OK sure, it's definitely on the to do list.

I was running Veloflex Pro Tour Race 25 and 28mm tubs which are nonetheless, high performance tyres which would be better than some average clinchers. My first foray into tubeless last year was a disaster with a hookless tyre blowing off. Now that there is a hooked tubeless wheel set for under 1000g, and with the improvements in tyre tech (especially Conti), the time seems right to change, and there are gains to be had. But I was always happy to ride tubs when they were 300g+ lighter than clinchers. That low inertia feel was addictive.

OK, well that could be the next video as soon as I get time....! But in a nutshell, enjoying it very much; the Ostro is excellent, but the SL8 is a bit more nimble and comfortable, albeit i think, a touch less aero.

@@CyclespeedTours Right, since i am also a light weight rider, we might have very similar feeling on it. The biggest traits i have noticed are 1.the acceleration from 0 to 30kmh, it is really fast; 2.the second one is indeed the nimble, and i think it is manifested on the cases when you standing and rocking the bike side-to-side, it is so responsive and effortless; once it gets to the speed cruising on it seems to be "just ordinary good", how do you resonate with my experiences?

@@willyturing1803 Yes, the acceleration is excellent. And it's not just the lighter weight, it also seems to be a function of it's agility and stiffness in the right places. You can definitely place the bike exactly where you want, although the Ostro was pretty good at this too. My descending style has changed slightly - I now put more weight forward (always a good thing when descending) and lean into the bend more. New PRs on local descents, although the new tyres do help with this. And comfort is excellent, even before I changed the tyres, I noticed it was smoother on chattery roads.

Sun and cycling! 53 1/2 now!

@@CyclespeedTours going on 33 1/2

@@randomname8442 there is a 62 year old guy in our group of 30 fast riders of all ages that NOONE can beat (well I beat him once, but I got lucky!!)

No, because although even lighter, those fat spokes are not aero at all, and I heard issues with them loosening.

Probably more durable because there is no paint to chip or scratch.

You use a standard Shimano tool to attach the spider to the crank arm, sorry don't have the reference with me. Otherwise standard tools - Torx key for chainring bolts, and biggest Allen key to attach and remove the cranks from the axle.

TPU tubes are a good option. I'm very happy with my SL8 too. The bolt is alu from ProBolt, M6, but you can find them everywhere.

Ride on TPU is harsh, You will be better on latex inner tubes, and the best option (fastest, most supple) is tubeless. With Orange Seal You don’t afraid of frame paint👍

@@CyclespeedTours but the head of the bolt looks perfectly plane with the cap. Didi you machined it ?

@@The14b88 Yes, I think I machined the bottom of the bolt head.

Tufo are impossible to patch

That's absolutely not true. Hooks do nothing to keep a flat on a tire. If that were true, there would be so many people that have had regular clinchers come off their rims

As for tubulars, they roll off rims too, and it normally happens when the tire isn't even punctured

True, but I love the look and I'll happily concede a few seconds for that!

@@CyclespeedTours haha 100% sir. Watts come and go, style stays for ever!

Depends on which tyre. There are fast tubs and slow clinchers, but lately yes, the best clinchers are better than the best tubs.

@@CyclespeedTourswhich model?

@@Pablo_Coach not sure what you mean?

@@CyclespeedTours which clincher are better than best tubeless tyres?

@@Pablo_Coach clincher refers to any tyre that grips the rim, including tubeless. Do you mean tubed vs tubeless or tubed vs tubular?

Good to know. The 28mm 5000S TR seem pretty bombproof, so no doubt I could go for the same as you, but I do use my bike for commuting and there is a fair bit of crap on the roads in Palma because they crash their cars into each other quite often........